The Night Before Day 1
Since my flight was scheduled to leave early the next morning, I decided to stay at a hotel near the airport the night. While my room at the Red Lion wasn't luxurious, it was clean and comfortable and only $60. You can't beat that.
Day 1
I hopped on the hotel shuttle at 6am for a quick 5 minute ride to the airport. My flight to Dublin (connecting in Chicago) left on time which was great, but when I got on the plane I discovered that I had a middle seat, which was NOT great. Oh well, a 4 hour flight wouldn't kill me.
I arrived at Chicago's O'Hare Airport which I am convinced is the most confusing airport in the world! I checked the departure screen and saw that my Aer Lingus flight to Dublin would be departing from Gate T5, but my ticket said it would be departing from M8. The only problem is that I didn't see any signs for a "T" or "M" concourse. Luckily I had about 5 hours before my flight, so I didn't have to worry about rushing.
I walked around for a while, still confused about this whole T5/M8 stuff until I finally realized that T5 stood for TERMINAL 5 AKA the International Terminal. I booked it over to the air train and rode to Terminal 5 with plenty of time to spare. Sure enough when I arrived, the departure screens in this terminal showed that my flight would be leaving from gate M8. Whew!
Unfortunately since I had to go outside the secure area when I left my arriving terminal to get to my departing terminal, I had the pleasure of going through airport security AGAIN. The line was long, but moved pretty quickly and soon I was sitting patiently at my gate to wait about 4 hours for my flight to Dublin.
After about 30 minutes, my stomach started growling so I decided to get something to eat. That's when I discovered that there are NO restaurants in the International Terminal once you get past security, just little kiosks serving cold sandwiches that have probably been sitting there for days. Yuck! I knew that if I wanted something hot, I would have to exit security and then go through the whole process again. Since I still had about 3 hours left I decided to bite the bullet and go for it. I went out, ate some pizza (which turned out to be the worst tasting pizza I've ever had... in CHICAGO for pete's sake!) then went back through security again for the third time. I was an expert by now!
I boarded the flight to Dublin around 6pm and while I was hoping to get a window seat, I ended up with an aisle. I can never decide which one is really better. On the one hand, it's easier to get some semblance of sleep if you sit by the window because you can lean against the wall. On the other hand, you have quicker and easier access to the bathroom if you're in an aisle seat. Inevitably every time I sit by the window, the passenger in the aisle seat is one of those annoying people who falls into a deep sleep the minute the plane takes off, so then if I want to go to the bathroom, I either have to wake them up or climb over them.
Anyway, the 8 hour flight to Dublin was uneventful aside from a bit of turbulence. Luckily each seat had its own on-demand video screen so I was able to watch a few movies to pass the time. I think it should be a law that EVERY plane have a video monitor at your seat, no matter how short the flight is. It really does make the fact that your crammed in with 300 other people a bit more bearable.
Day 2
After the overnight flight from Chicago, I arrived in Dublin around 8am...exhausted since I didn't get any sleep on the plane. I grabbed a cab to my hotel, the Castle Hotel in downtown Dublin. It is a reasonably priced, beautiful Georgian era hotel. Unfortunately, check in wasn't until 2pm, but the nice receptionist Gillian noticed how exhausted I looked and told me that I could wait in the parlor and she would let me know as soon as my room was available. I had to wait about an hour before Gillian came out with the most beautiful thing I had seen so far in Ireland... the key to my room. I unpacked and settled in for nice nap.
A few hours later, after a long nap and nice hot shower, I headed out to do some preliminary sight seeing. The hotel was located about a 10 minute walk from O'Connell St, which is really where you want to be for touristy stuff. The first thing I discovered is that you do NOT want to try driving in Dublin for two reasons:
Difficult Navigation AKA Where are the F**king Street Signs
Dublin likes to mess with you by not having easily noticeable street signs. They aren't anywhere near the street where you'd expect, but up high on the corner of the buildings and look like this:
Once you learn this, it's a bit easier, but if you're not prepared, you'll spend a fair amount of time roaming around wondering where you are.
A Street by Any Other Name
Dublin streets must get bored easily and want a change of pace, because a lot of them decide to up and change their names with no warning. (Of course I'm sure there's some logical method to this madness, but I was unable to figure it out).
Your best bet in Dublin is to walk or take public transport. Walking is perfectly safe as long as you remember which way to look for oncoming traffic. People in Ireland drive on the left. You wouldn't think this would be a big deal, but trust me, your brain is wired to automatically look in the direction that you THINK the cars should be coming from. Luckily, Dublin city planners realized this, so you'll see signs like this to help you out:
When I first saw this, I thought, "What kind of idiot doesn't know how to cross the street?" Then I promptly almost got pancaked by a huge bus while looking the wrong way, so yeah, those signs are handy.
After getting my bearings, I headed over to Trinity College to walk around a bit and explore. Founded in 1592 by Queen Elizabeth I it's the oldest university in Ireland. It's also home to the Books of Kells, a manuscript containing the four gospels of the New Testament created by Celtic monks around 1200 years ago.
Moving on to the Old Parliament House which served as the seat of both chambers of the parliament of the Kingdom of Ireland for most of the 18th century until the parliament was abolished in 1800. In 1803 the Bank of Ireland purchased the building from the government to use as its new headquarters. The building still functions as a bank today. I went in there to get some change for the €50 note I got from the ATM earlier. I wasn't sure if I was allowed to take photos, so I didn't risk it. I have since seen photos on the internet, so I assume you can.
Then on to Temple Bar, a very touristy area with lots of pubs. Basically if you're in college and come to Dublin, this is where you'll be hanging out. Despite the fact that it's pretty much a tourist trap, it does have an interesting history.
By the 20th century the area suffered from urban decay with most of the businesses and homes being abandoned and shuttered. In the early 1980s the Irish Transport System decided to buy up the buildings and demolish the whole area to build a bus station. While this was in the planning stages, the purchased buildings were rented out at very low rates which attracted artists, performers, small shop owners and the like. After a few years, the National Trust of Ireland decided that demolishing everything to build a bus station didn't really make a lot of sense. The bus plan was abandoned and the government set up a non-profit company called Temple Bar Properties to oversee the regeneration of the area as Dublin's Cultural Quarter.
By this point the jet lag was starting to get to me, so I headed back to the hotel bar to get some dinner and retire for the night.
Day 3
I woke up early and went downstairs to enjoy the nice breakfast that was included with my hotel stay. Unfortunately I was still feeling a little "jet laggy" so I just had some cereal and juice. I decided not to risk trying the full Irish breakfast which consists of eggs, bacon, sausage, beans, tomatoes, and black or white pudding. And no, black or white pudding is NOT chocolate or vanilla pudding. It's a type of sausage. If you're curious, look it up, but don't say I didn't warn you.
Today I was going to use my Hop On-Hop Off ticket to explore a bit more of the city. I really liked this touring option because you buy a ticket for €15 and it's good for 24 hours. You can hop on and off whenever you like. Here's what I saw today:
The General Post Office: served as the leader's headquarters during the 1916 Easter Rising. You can still see bullet marks in the columns.
House Number 29: Dublin's Georgian House Museum. All the rooms are furnished as they would have been during the years 1790-1820. The virtual tour on their website explains the house in much better detail than I ever could and it has better photos.
St. Stephen's Green: I took a nice stroll around this park for about an hour.
My last stop for the day was Kilmainham Gaol. This jail was opened from 1798 to 1926 and leaders of the 5 Irish rebellions were detained here and many were executed.
- How to tell the difference between a "jig" and a "reel".
- Musicians learn their instruments from a very early age, and some never learn to read music. Everything is learned by ear.
- Sean-nós (Gaelic for "old style") is a style of unaccompanied singing. This is quite a change from the "lively" Irish music post people are accustomed to.
- If you see people clapping along to the music during a session, chances are they are tourists. The appropriate way to keep time with the music is by tapping your feet since it doesn't distract the musicians the way clapping that starts and stops does.
The pub crawl ended around 10:30pm and I headed back home to rest up for my adventures tomorrow.
Today was the day that I would be taking a tour to see the Cliffs of Moher on the west coast of Ireland. I headed to the tourist office to meet my tour group around 7:30am. The tour was operated by Paddywagon Tours and while our bus driver/tour guide was very entertaining, the bus itself was very cramped and uncomfortable... especially if you have long legs. Of course, the entire tour was only about $50 so I can't complain too much.
We drove across the country and stopped in Doolin, a tiny village that just happens to be Ireland's traditional music capital. Unfortunately we only stopped there for lunch and didn't have a chance to listen to any music.
Then it was on to the Burren to see the limestone surface that supports Arctic, Mediterranean, and Alpine plants all in the same area due to the unusual environment. Most people took a ton of pictures here, but for some reason I thought it was a little boring. It could have been because I was irritable from the cramped bus ride.
Unfortunately, riding in a bus across the country is exhausting and riding back home is even more so. I would definitely sleep well tonight!
Day 5 - The Final Day :-(
Since this was my last day in Ireland, I decided to take it easy. I had heard about St Michan's Church which offers tours of their underground crypt (with real mummies), so of course I had to see it. The guide was a quirky, yet very knowledgeable guy named Peter. There are 4 mummies on display: a 400 year old nun, a Crusader, a thief, and the unknown. Unfortunately photography isn't allowed in the crypts, but I was able to find this excellent documentary video on YouTube:
And that brings us to the end of my birthday trip to Ireland. I was sad to leave, but have added Ireland to list of repeat vacation destinations.























